INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

CORNICES & BULKHEADS

The correct installation of your cornices and bulkheads is essential for their durability and aesthetic quality within your home. We have made every effort to keep these instructions as clear and concise as possible with our step by step process. Please ensure each step is followed and completed before progressing to the next.

Installation Instructions

Cornices, LED Ready Cornices, Bulkhead Trims and Ceiling trims

Required tools:

  1. Pencil
  2. Measuring tape
  3. Mitre Box
  4. A very fine saw
  5. Chalk line and chalk
  6. Ladder
  1. Adhesive
  2. Paint scraper / filling knife
  3. Caulking gun for applying adhesive if adhesive is in a cartridge
  4. Drop sheets if installing cornice in a room where tiles or carpets are already installed.
  5. Sponge or mutton cloth for wiping away excess adhesive.
  6. Very fine sandpaper

 

STEP 1

Measure the linear meters of the walls to which the cornice must be installed. Add 10% to 15% for waste. Ensure that the surface of the walls and ceilings, to which the cornices will be installed to, are free from dust and dirt and is completely dry. You may use a 120 grid or finer sand paper to ensure the installation area is clean but make sure that all dust from sanding is wiped clean with a clean dry cloth.

STEP 2

Familiarise yourself with the cornice size. In the diagram below you will see three measurements:

  1. Ceiling : Projection – The distance from the wall surface to the front edge of the cornice
  2. Wall : Drop – The distance from the ceiling surface to the bottom edge of the cornice
  3. Face – The size of the cornice face

Make sure that the cornice is a suitable size all around the intended installation area before commencing with the installation. For instance, ensure there is sufficient space between the top of cupboards and the ceiling. The cornice in the illustration would require at least a 95mm gap.

STEP 3

Measure out and mark the installation line. To do this, measure the drop of the cornice (B) at each change in wall direction such as corners. Then, use a chalk line to mark a straight line to each measurement mark around the room. This will serve as the installation guideline.

STEP 4

Always start the installation at the most visible corner in relation to the entrance to the room. Below is a diagram that indicates which corner will be the most visible. The reason for this is to minimise any joints in line of sight. Always start with the longest lengths first to minimise waste.

STEP 5

To mitre a corner

Mitre joints are formed in the corner of rooms or where the coving is going to finish part-way along a wall, and the end needs to be finished off with a piece of cornice that returns towards the wall to give a neat finish. The trick to succesful mitres is to ensure that the cornice is placed correctly inside the mitre box. The cornice is placed upside down in the mitre box at the angle to which it is installed, usually 45 degrees. To make sure the angle is correct, place the ceiling bedding edge (Projection – A) against the bottom side of the mitre box and the wall bedding edge (Drop – B) against the side of the mitre box opposite to you. To get the angle correct it is easier to measure the projection size of the cornice (measurement A) from the side of the mitre box opposite to you and make a mark against the bottom side of the mitre box. Now place the ceiling edge (Drop – B) of the cornice at the mark at the bottom side of the mitre box every time to ensure consistency of the angle. When measuring a cornice cut, make sure you measure along the edge that will be placed against the wall. To help you keep track of which is the wall edge scribble along that edge in pencil or write the word wall at various intervals along that edge on the back of the cornice. There are two walls to every corner. A left wall and a right wall. You need one length of cornice for each wall of the corner.

Cutting an inside corner

When cutting the length for the left wall for an inside corner, the saw will point left in the mitre box and everything left of the saw is waste. When cutting the length for the right wall for an inside corner, the saw will point right in the mitre box and everything right of the saw is waste. When you take the cornice out of the mitre box turn the length around so that the left edge is on the right and the right edge is on the left. The corners should now fit perfectly.

Cutting an outside corner

When cutting the length for the left wall for an inside corner, the saw will point right in the mitre box and everything left of the saw is waste. When cutting the length for the right wall for an inside corner, the saw will point left in the mitre box and everything right of the saw is waste. When you take the cornice out of the mitre box turn the length around so that the left edge is on the right and the right edge is on the left. The corners should now fit perfectly.

STEP 6

Apply a bead of adhesive along both long edges of the cornice, as well as the butt end that is being glued to another cornice or wall. Otherwise no adhesive to the butt ends at this point. Don’t be frightened of putting on too much adhesive, you will be able to scrape it off easily using the filling knife and a wet cloth or sponge to clean the wall. You want it to just be squeezing out from the edges as you press the coving into position. Be careful not to squeeze out all the adhesive as the adhesive will lose its ability to bond and cure. Align the cornice to the chalk line on the wall to ensure a consistent straight installation. If you are installing from a corner, then leave just a few mm’s from the wall to allow the other mitre end to fit with the adhesive applied.

Once the first cornice length is installed then apply adhesive to the next length including the mitre joint or butt end that is joined with the first length. Pins can be used to keep joints in place. Excess adhesive must be scraped away or wiped away with a damp sponge or mutton cloth. If adhesive is used from a bucket, then excess adhesive may be returned to the bucket.

Use your filling knife to press adhesive into any gaps, pushing adhesive into any joints that do not quite meet and any undulations in the surface of the wall

STEP 7

Once the installation is complete allow 48 to 72 hours for the adhesive to cure.

STEP 8

Before painting, inspect all the joints and sand away any excess adhesive or fill exposed joints. The adhesive may have receded slightly during the curing process in which case the joints would need some filling. You can use the polystyrene adhesive to fill the joints or alternatively any acrylic filler. Be sure to leave a bit of excess over the joints which should be sanded smooth after 24 hours.

Only use acrylic paints when painting polystyrene cornice.

Installation Instructions

L-Shaped Bulkhead

Required tools:

  • Pencil
  • Measuring tape
  • Mitre Box (45-degree angle Horizontally – 150mm wide or more.)
  • A very fine saw
  • Chalk line and chalk
  • Ladder
  • Adhesive
  • Paint scraper / filling knife
  • Caulking gun for applying adhesive if adhesive is in a cartridge
  • Drop sheets if installing bulkheads in a room where tiles or carpets are already installed.
  • Sponge or mutton cloth for wiping away excess adhesive.
  • Very fine sandpaper

Assembly of the Bulkheads:

  • Assemble the Bulkhead on a flat surface.
  • Slide the Upright Profiles horizontally as indicated in the images below.

Note: Don’t use too much force, and gently guide the Upright Profile into the Bottom Profile.

L-Shape Bulkhead

 

STEP 1

Ensure that the surface of the walls and ceilings, to which the bulkheads will be installed to, are free from dust and dirt and is completely dry.

Tip: You may use a 120 grid or finer sand paper to ensure the installation area is clean but make sure that all dust from sanding is wiped clean with a clean dry cloth.

STEP 2

Familiarise yourself with the bulkhead size. In the diagram below, you will see two measurements:

  1. Width – The width of the bulkhead
  2. Drop – The distance from the ceiling surface to the bottom edge of the bulkhead

STEP 3

For L-Shaped Bulkheads

  • Measure out and mark the installation line at the bulkhead width away from the wall. Repeat this measurement at each wall. (Add 5% to 10% for waste.)
  • Now measure the height of the bulkhead from the ceiling down by each corner of the walls or at least two places at each wall.
  • Then, use a chalk line to mark a straight line through each measurement mark on the ceiling as well as the walls for the total length of the wall or bulkhead length.

See diagram below. This will serve as the installation guideline.

STEP 4

Always start the installation at the most visible corner in relation to the entrance to the room.

  • Below is a diagram that indicates which corner will be the most visible. The reason for this is to minimise any joints in line of sight.
  • Always start with the longest lengths first to minimise waste.

STEP 5

Corners:

Note: To make a 90 degree joint it is required to cut the butt end of the bulkhead at a 45-degree angle. The trick to successful mitres is to ensure that the bulkhead is cut correctly. Either with a mitre box, or by using guidelines marked out and cut with a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

The bulkhead uprights (Profile B, C, D, and E) are placed in the mitre box that has a horizontal 45-degree angle.

Alternatively, mark the angle required on the bulkhead profiles, and cut slowly, using a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

Note: To make sure the angle is cut correctly, ensure that the shadow line is always on the outside of the bulkhead.

Inside Corner

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing up. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an inside corner, as shown in the Image.

Outside Corner

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing down. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an outside corner as shown in the Image.

STEP 6

Apply a bead of adhesive along the top edges of the bulkheads (as indicated in the diagram), as well as the butt end (if being glued to another bulkhead or wall).

Note: Don’t be frightened of putting on too much adhesive, you will be able to scrape it off easily using the filling knife and a wet cloth or sponge to clean the wall or ceiling. You want it to just be squeezing out from the edges as you press the bulkhead into position. Be careful not to squeeze out all the adhesive as the adhesive will lose its ability to bond and cure.

  • Align the bulkhead to the chalk line on the wall to ensure a consistent straight installation. If you are installing from a corner, then leave just a few mm’s from the wall to allow the other mitre end to fit with the adhesive applied.
  • Once the first bulkhead length is installed then apply adhesive to the next length including the mitre joint or butt end that is joined with the first length. Pins can be used to keep joints in place.
  • Use your filling knife to press adhesive into any gaps, pushing adhesive into any joints that do not quite meet and any undulations in the surface of the wall or ceiling.

STEP 7

Once the installation is complete allow 48 to 72 hours for the adhesive to cure.

STEP 8

Before painting, inspect all the joints and sand away any excess adhesive or fill exposed joints. You can use the polystyrene adhesive to fill the joints or alternatively any acrylic filler. Be sure to leave a bit of excess over the joints which should be sanded smooth after 24 hours.

NOTE: Only use acrylic paints when painting polystyrene bulkheads.

Installation Instructions

Step Light Trough U-Shape Bulkhead

Required tools:

  • Pencil
  • Measuring tape
  • Mitre Box (45-degree angle Horizontally – 150mm wide or more.)
  • A very fine saw
  • Chalk line and chalk
  • Ladder
  • Adhesive
  • Paint scraper / filling knife
  • Caulking gun for applying adhesive if adhesive is in a cartridge
  • Drop sheets if installing bulkheads in a room where tiles or carpets are already installed.
  • Sponge or mutton cloth for wiping away excess adhesive.
  • Very fine sandpaper

Assembly of the Bulkheads:

  • Slide the Upright Profiles horizontally as indicated in the images below.

Note: Don’t use too much force, and gently guide the Upright Profile into the Bottom Profile.

Step Light Trough U-Shape

 

STEP 1

  • Measure the outside linear meters of the bulkhead layout of the walls / ceiling to which the bulkheads must be installed. (Add 5% to 10% for waste.)
  • Ensure that the surface of the walls and ceilings, to which the bulkheads will be installed to, are free from dust and dirt and is completely dry.

Tip: You may use a 120 grid or finer sand paper to ensure the installation area is clean but make sure that all dust from sanding is wiped clean with a clean dry cloth.

STEP 2

Familiarise yourself with the bulkhead size. In the diagram below, you will see two measurements:

  1. Width – The width of the bulkhead
  2. Drop – The distance from the ceiling surface to the bottom edge of the bulkhead

STEP 3

For U-Shape Bulkheads

  • Determine how far the bulkhead must be installed away from each wall in the room and mark the installation line parallel to each wall.
  • Use a chalk line to mark the outside perimeter of the bulkhead using the measurement points as a guideline. Allow chalk line lines to cross each other at intersections.
  • To mark the inside perimeter installation line (if required), measure the width of the bulkhead from each corner intersection and make a mark.
  • Then use a chalk line to connect all the marks and you should be left with all the required guidelines as per the diagram below.

STEP 4

  • Always start the installation at the most visible corner in relation to the entrance to the room.
  • Below is a diagram that indicates which corner will be the most visible. The reason for this is to minimise any joints in line of sight.
  • Always start with the longest lengths first to minimise waste.

STEP 5

Corners:

Note: To make a 90 degree joint it is required to cut the butt end of the bulkhead at a 45-degree angle. The trick to successful mitres is to ensure that the bulkhead is cut correctly. Either with a mitre box, or by using guidelines marked out and cut with a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

The bulkhead uprights (Profile B, C, D, and E) are placed in the mitre box that has a horizontal 45-degree angle.

Alternatively, mark the angle required on the bulkhead profiles, and cut slowly, using a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

Note: To make sure the angle is cut correctly, ensure that the shadow line is always on the outside of the bulkhead.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing up. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an inside corner, as shown in the Image.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing down. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an outside corner as shown in the Image.

STEP 6

Apply a bead of adhesive along the top edges of the bulkheads (as indicated in the diagram), as well as the butt end (if being glued to another bulkhead or wall).

Note: Don’t be frightened of putting on too much adhesive, you will be able to scrape it off easily using the filling knife and a wet cloth or sponge to clean the wall or ceiling. You want it to just be squeezing out from the edges as you press the bulkhead into position. Be careful not to squeeze out all the adhesive as the adhesive will lose its ability to bond and cure.

  • Align the bulkhead to the chalk line on the wall to ensure a consistent straight installation. If you are installing from a corner, then leave just a few mm’s from the wall to allow the other mitre end to fit with the adhesive applied.
  • Once the first bulkhead length is installed then apply adhesive to the next length including the mitre joint or butt end that is joined with the first length. Pins can be used to keep joints in place.
  • Use your filling knife to press adhesive into any gaps, pushing adhesive into any joints that do not quite meet and any undulations in the surface of the wall or ceiling.

STEP 7

Once the installation is complete allow 48 to 72 hours for the adhesive to cure.

STEP 8

Before painting, inspect all the joints and sand away any excess adhesive or fill exposed joints. You can use the polystyrene adhesive to fill the joints or alternatively any acrylic filler. Be sure to leave a bit of excess over the joints which should be sanded smooth after 24 hours.

NOTE: Only use acrylic paints when painting polystyrene bulkheads.

Installation Instructions

Flat Light Trough U-Shape Bulkhead

Required tools:

  • Pencil
  • Measuring tape
  • Mitre Box (45-degree angle Horizontally – 150mm wide or more.)
  • A very fine saw
  • Chalk line and chalk
  • Ladder
  • Adhesive
  • Paint scraper / filling knife
  • Caulking gun for applying adhesive if adhesive is in a cartridge
  • Drop sheets if installing bulkheads in a room where tiles or carpets are already installed.
  • Sponge or mutton cloth for wiping away excess adhesive.
  • Very fine sandpaper

Assembly of the Bulkheads:

  • Slide the Upright Profiles horizontally as indicated in the images below.

Note: Don’t use too much force, and gently guide the Upright Profile into the Bottom Profile.

Flat Light Trough U-Shape

 

STEP 1

  • Measure the outside linear meters of the bulkhead layout of the walls / ceiling to which the bulkheads must be installed. (Add 5% to 10% for waste.)
  • Ensure that the surface of the walls and ceilings, to which the bulkheads will be installed to, are free from dust and dirt and is completely dry.

Tip: You may use a 120 grid or finer sand paper to ensure the installation area is clean but make sure that all dust from sanding is wiped clean with a clean dry cloth.

STEP 2

Familiarise yourself with the bulkhead size. In the diagram below, you will see two measurements:

  1. Width – The width of the bulkhead
  2. Drop – The distance from the ceiling surface to the bottom edge of the bulkhead

STEP 3

For U-Shape Bulkheads

  • Determine how far the bulkhead must be installed away from each wall in the room and mark the installation line parallel to each wall.
  • Use a chalk line to mark the outside perimeter of the bulkhead using the measurement points as a guideline. Allow chalk line lines to cross each other at intersections.
  • To mark the inside perimeter installation line (if required), measure the width of the bulkhead from each corner intersection and make a mark.
  • Then use a chalk line to connect all the marks and you should be left with all the required guidelines as per the diagram below.

STEP 4

  • Always start the installation at the most visible corner in relation to the entrance to the room.
  • Below is a diagram that indicates which corner will be the most visible. The reason for this is to minimise any joints in line of sight.
  • Always start with the longest lengths first to minimise waste.

STEP 5

Corners:

Note: To make a 90 degree joint it is required to cut the butt end of the bulkhead at a 45-degree angle. The trick to successful mitres is to ensure that the bulkhead is cut correctly. Either with a mitre box, or by using guidelines marked out and cut with a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

The bulkhead uprights (Profile B, C, D, and E) are placed in the mitre box that has a horizontal 45-degree angle.

Alternatively, mark the angle required on the bulkhead profiles, and cut slowly, using a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

Note: To make sure the angle is cut correctly, ensure that the shadow line is always on the outside of the bulkhead.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing up. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an inside corner, as shown in the Image.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing down. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an outside corner as shown in the Image.

STEP 6

Apply a bead of adhesive along the top edges of the bulkheads (as indicated in the diagram), as well as the butt end (if being glued to another bulkhead or wall).

Note: Don’t be frightened of putting on too much adhesive, you will be able to scrape it off easily using the filling knife and a wet cloth or sponge to clean the wall or ceiling. You want it to just be squeezing out from the edges as you press the bulkhead into position. Be careful not to squeeze out all the adhesive as the adhesive will lose its ability to bond and cure.

  • Align the bulkhead to the chalk line on the wall to ensure a consistent straight installation. If you are installing from a corner, then leave just a few mm’s from the wall to allow the other mitre end to fit with the adhesive applied.
  • Once the first bulkhead length is installed then apply adhesive to the next length including the mitre joint or butt end that is joined with the first length. Pins can be used to keep joints in place.
  • Use your filling knife to press adhesive into any gaps, pushing adhesive into any joints that do not quite meet and any undulations in the surface of the wall or ceiling.

STEP 7

Once the installation is complete allow 48 to 72 hours for the adhesive to cure.

STEP 8

Before painting, inspect all the joints and sand away any excess adhesive or fill exposed joints. You can use the polystyrene adhesive to fill the joints or alternatively any acrylic filler. Be sure to leave a bit of excess over the joints which should be sanded smooth after 24 hours.

NOTE: Only use acrylic paints when painting polystyrene bulkheads.

Installation Instructions

Step Light Trough L-Shape Bulkhead

Required tools:

  • Pencil
  • Measuring tape
  • Mitre Box (45-degree angle Horizontally – 150mm wide or more.)
  • A very fine saw
  • Chalk line and chalk
  • Ladder
  • Adhesive
  • Paint scraper / filling knife
  • Caulking gun for applying adhesive if adhesive is in a cartridge
  • Drop sheets if installing bulkheads in a room where tiles or carpets are already installed.
  • Sponge or mutton cloth for wiping away excess adhesive.
  • Very fine sandpaper

Assembly of the Bulkheads:

  • Slide the Upright Profiles horizontally as indicated in the images below.

Note: Don’t use too much force, and gently guide the Upright Profile into the Bottom Profile.

Step Light Trough L-Shape

 

STEP 1

Ensure that the surface of the walls and ceilings, to which the bulkheads will be installed to, are free from dust and dirt and is completely dry.

Tip: You may use a 120 grid or finer sand paper to ensure the installation area is clean but make sure that all dust from sanding is wiped clean with a clean dry cloth.

STEP 2

Familiarise yourself with the bulkhead size. In the diagram below, you will see two measurements:

  1. Width – The width of the bulkhead
  2. Drop – The distance from the ceiling surface to the bottom edge of the bulkhead

STEP 3

For L-Shaped Bulkheads

  • Measure out and mark the installation line at the bulkhead width away from the wall. Repeat this measurement at each wall. (Add 5% to 10% for waste.)
  • Now measure the height of the bulkhead from the ceiling down by each corner of the walls or at least two places at each wall.
  • Then, use a chalk line to mark a straight line through each measurement mark on the ceiling as well as the walls for the total length of the wall or bulkhead length.

See diagram below. This will serve as the installation guideline.

STEP 4

  • Always start the installation at the most visible corner in relation to the entrance to the room.
  • Below is a diagram that indicates which corner will be the most visible. The reason for this is to minimise any joints in line of sight.
  • Always start with the longest lengths first to minimise waste.

STEP 5

Corners:

Note: To make a 90 degree joint it is required to cut the butt end of the bulkhead at a 45-degree angle. The trick to successful mitres is to ensure that the bulkhead is cut correctly. Either with a mitre box, or by using guidelines marked out and cut with a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

The bulkhead uprights (Profile B, C, D, and E) are placed in the mitre box that has a horizontal 45-degree angle.

Alternatively, mark the angle required on the bulkhead profiles, and cut slowly, using a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

Note: To make sure the angle is cut correctly, ensure that the shadow line is always on the outside of the bulkhead.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing up. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an inside corner, as shown in the Image.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing down. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an outside corner as shown in the Image.

STEP 6

Apply a bead of adhesive along the top edges of the bulkheads (as indicated in the diagram), as well as the butt end (if being glued to another bulkhead or wall).

Note: Don’t be frightened of putting on too much adhesive, you will be able to scrape it off easily using the filling knife and a wet cloth or sponge to clean the wall or ceiling. You want it to just be squeezing out from the edges as you press the bulkhead into position. Be careful not to squeeze out all the adhesive as the adhesive will lose its ability to bond and cure.

  • Align the bulkhead to the chalk line on the wall to ensure a consistent straight installation. If you are installing from a corner, then leave just a few mm’s from the wall to allow the other mitre end to fit with the adhesive applied.
  • Once the first bulkhead length is installed then apply adhesive to the next length including the mitre joint or butt end that is joined with the first length. Pins can be used to keep joints in place.
  • Use your filling knife to press adhesive into any gaps, pushing adhesive into any joints that do not quite meet and any undulations in the surface of the wall or ceiling.

STEP 7

Once the installation is complete allow 48 to 72 hours for the adhesive to cure.

STEP 8

Before painting, inspect all the joints and sand away any excess adhesive or fill exposed joints. You can use the polystyrene adhesive to fill the joints or alternatively any acrylic filler. Be sure to leave a bit of excess over the joints which should be sanded smooth after 24 hours.

NOTE: Only use acrylic paints when painting polystyrene bulkheads.

Installation Instructions

U-Shape Bulkhead

Required tools:

  • Pencil
  • Measuring tape
  • Mitre Box (45-degree angle Horizontally – 150mm wide or more.)
  • A very fine saw
  • Chalk line and chalk
  • Ladder
  • Adhesive
  • Paint scraper / filling knife
  • Caulking gun for applying adhesive if adhesive is in a cartridge
  • Drop sheets if installing bulkheads in a room where tiles or carpets are already installed.
  • Sponge or mutton cloth for wiping away excess adhesive.
  • Very fine sandpaper

Assembly of the Bulkheads:

  • Slide the Upright Profiles horizontally as indicated in the images below.

Note: Don’t use too much force, and gently guide the Upright Profile into the Bottom Profile.

U-Shape Bulkhead

 

STEP 1

  • Measure the outside linear meters of the bulkhead layout of the walls / ceiling to which the bulkheads must be installed. (Add 5% to 10% for waste.)
  • Ensure that the surface of the walls and ceilings, to which the bulkheads will be installed to, are free from dust and dirt and is completely dry.

Tip: You may use a 120 grid or finer sand paper to ensure the installation area is clean but make sure that all dust from sanding is wiped clean with a clean dry cloth.

STEP 2

Familiarise yourself with the bulkhead size. In the diagram below, you will see two measurements:

  1. Width – The width of the bulkhead
  2. Drop – The distance from the ceiling surface to the bottom edge of the bulkhead

STEP 3

For U-Shape Bulkheads

  • Determine how far the bulkhead must be installed away from each wall in the room and mark the installation line parallel to each wall.
  • Use a chalk line to mark the outside perimeter of the bulkhead using the measurement points as a guideline. Allow chalk line lines to cross each other at intersections.
  • To mark the inside perimeter installation line (if required), measure the width of the bulkhead from each corner intersection and make a mark.
  • Then use a chalk line to connect all the marks and you should be left with all the required guidelines as per the diagram below.

STEP 4

  • Always start the installation at the most visible corner in relation to the entrance to the room.
  • Below is a diagram that indicates which corner will be the most visible. The reason for this is to minimise any joints in line of sight.
  • Always start with the longest lengths first to minimise waste.

STEP 5

Corners:

Note: To make a 90 degree joint it is required to cut the butt end of the bulkhead at a 45-degree angle. The trick to successful mitres is to ensure that the bulkhead is cut correctly. Either with a mitre box, or by using guidelines marked out and cut with a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

The bulkhead uprights (Profile B, C, D, and E) are placed in the mitre box that has a horizontal 45-degree angle.

Alternatively, mark the angle required on the bulkhead profiles, and cut slowly, using a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

Note: To make sure the angle is cut correctly, ensure that the shadow line is always on the outside of the bulkhead.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing up. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an inside corner, as shown in the Image.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing down. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an outside corner as shown in the Image.

STEP 6

Apply a bead of adhesive along the top edges of the bulkheads (as indicated in the diagram), as well as the butt end (if being glued to another bulkhead or wall).

Note: Don’t be frightened of putting on too much adhesive, you will be able to scrape it off easily using the filling knife and a wet cloth or sponge to clean the wall or ceiling. You want it to just be squeezing out from the edges as you press the bulkhead into position. Be careful not to squeeze out all the adhesive as the adhesive will lose its ability to bond and cure.

  • Align the bulkhead to the chalk line on the wall to ensure a consistent straight installation. If you are installing from a corner, then leave just a few mm’s from the wall to allow the other mitre end to fit with the adhesive applied.
  • Once the first bulkhead length is installed then apply adhesive to the next length including the mitre joint or butt end that is joined with the first length. Pins can be used to keep joints in place.
  • Use your filling knife to press adhesive into any gaps, pushing adhesive into any joints that do not quite meet and any undulations in the surface of the wall or ceiling.

STEP 7

Once the installation is complete allow 48 to 72 hours for the adhesive to cure.

STEP 8

Before painting, inspect all the joints and sand away any excess adhesive or fill exposed joints. You can use the polystyrene adhesive to fill the joints or alternatively any acrylic filler. Be sure to leave a bit of excess over the joints which should be sanded smooth after 24 hours.

NOTE: Only use acrylic paints when painting polystyrene bulkheads.

Installation Instructions

Step L-Shape Bulkhead

Required tools:

  • Pencil
  • Measuring tape
  • Mitre Box (45-degree angle Horizontally – 150mm wide or more.)
  • A very fine saw
  • Chalk line and chalk
  • Ladder
  • Adhesive
  • Paint scraper / filling knife
  • Caulking gun for applying adhesive if adhesive is in a cartridge
  • Drop sheets if installing bulkheads in a room where tiles or carpets are already installed.
  • Sponge or mutton cloth for wiping away excess adhesive.
  • Very fine sandpaper

Assembly of the Bulkheads:

  • Assemble the Bulkhead on a flat surface.
  • Slide the Upright Profiles horizontally as indicated in the images below.

Note: Don’t use too much force, and gently guide the Upright Profile into the Bottom Profile.

STEP L-Shape Bulkhead

 

STEP 1

Ensure that the surface of the walls and ceilings, to which the bulkheads will be installed to, are free from dust and dirt and is completely dry.

Tip: You may use a 120 grid or finer sand paper to ensure the installation area is clean but make sure that all dust from sanding is wiped clean with a clean dry cloth.

STEP 2

Familiarise yourself with the bulkhead size. In the diagram below, you will see two measurements:

  1. Width – The width of the bulkhead
  2. Drop – The distance from the ceiling surface to the bottom edge of the bulkhead

STEP 3

For L-Shaped Bulkheads

  • Measure out and mark the installation line at the bulkhead width away from the wall. Repeat this measurement at each wall. (Add 5% to 10% for waste.)
  • Now measure the height of the bulkhead from the ceiling down by each corner of the walls or at least two places at each wall.
  • Then, use a chalk line to mark a straight line through each measurement mark on the ceiling as well as the walls for the total length of the wall or bulkhead length.

See diagram below. This will serve as the installation guideline.

STEP 4

  • Always start the installation at the most visible corner in relation to the entrance to the room.
  • Below is a diagram that indicates which corner will be the most visible. The reason for this is to minimise any joints in line of sight.
  • Always start with the longest lengths first to minimise waste.

STEP 5

Corners:

Note: To make a 90 degree joint it is required to cut the butt end of the bulkhead at a 45-degree angle. The trick to successful mitres is to ensure that the bulkhead is cut correctly. Either with a mitre box, or by using guidelines marked out and cut with a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

The bulkhead uprights (Profile B, C, D, and E) are placed in the mitre box that has a horizontal 45-degree angle.

Alternatively, mark the angle required on the bulkhead profiles, and cut slowly, using a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

Note: To make sure the angle is cut correctly, ensure that the shadow line is always on the outside of the bulkhead.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing up. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an inside corner, as shown in the Image.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing down. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an outside corner as shown in the Image.

STEP 6

Apply a bead of adhesive along the top edges of the bulkheads (as indicated in the diagram), as well as the butt end (if being glued to another bulkhead or wall).

Note: Don’t be frightened of putting on too much adhesive, you will be able to scrape it off easily using the filling knife and a wet cloth or sponge to clean the wall or ceiling. You want it to just be squeezing out from the edges as you press the bulkhead into position. Be careful not to squeeze out all the adhesive as the adhesive will lose its ability to bond and cure.

  • Align the bulkhead to the chalk line on the wall to ensure a consistent straight installation. If you are installing from a corner, then leave just a few mm’s from the wall to allow the other mitre end to fit with the adhesive applied.
  • Once the first bulkhead length is installed then apply adhesive to the next length including the mitre joint or butt end that is joined with the first length. Pins can be used to keep joints in place.
  • Use your filling knife to press adhesive into any gaps, pushing adhesive into any joints that do not quite meet and any undulations in the surface of the wall or ceiling.

STEP 7

Once the installation is complete allow 48 to 72 hours for the adhesive to cure.

STEP 8

Before painting, inspect all the joints and sand away any excess adhesive or fill exposed joints. You can use the polystyrene adhesive to fill the joints or alternatively any acrylic filler. Be sure to leave a bit of excess over the joints which should be sanded smooth after 24 hours.

NOTE: Only use acrylic paints when painting polystyrene bulkheads.

Installation Instructions

Step U-Shape Bulkhead

Required tools:

  • Pencil
  • Measuring tape
  • Mitre Box (45-degree angle Horizontally – 150mm wide or more.)
  • A very fine saw
  • Chalk line and chalk
  • Ladder
  • Adhesive
  • Paint scraper / filling knife
  • Caulking gun for applying adhesive if adhesive is in a cartridge
  • Drop sheets if installing bulkheads in a room where tiles or carpets are already installed.
  • Sponge or mutton cloth for wiping away excess adhesive.
  • Very fine sandpaper

Assembly of the Bulkheads:

  • Slide the Upright Profiles horizontally as indicated in the images below.

Note: Don’t use too much force, and gently guide the Upright Profile into the Bottom Profile.

STEP U-Shape Bulkhead

 

STEP 1

  • Measure the outside linear meters of the bulkhead layout of the walls / ceiling to which the bulkheads must be installed. (Add 5% to 10% for waste.)
  • Ensure that the surface of the walls and ceilings, to which the bulkheads will be installed to, are free from dust and dirt and is completely dry.

Tip: You may use a 120 grid or finer sand paper to ensure the installation area is clean but make sure that all dust from sanding is wiped clean with a clean dry cloth.

STEP 2

Familiarise yourself with the bulkhead size. In the diagram below, you will see two measurements:

  1. Width – The width of the bulkhead
  2. Drop – The distance from the ceiling surface to the bottom edge of the bulkhead

STEP 3

For U-Shape Bulkheads

  • Determine how far the bulkhead must be installed away from each wall in the room and mark the installation line parallel to each wall.
  • Use a chalk line to mark the outside perimeter of the bulkhead using the measurement points as a guideline. Allow chalk line lines to cross each other at intersections.
  • To mark the inside perimeter installation line (if required), measure the width of the bulkhead from each corner intersection and make a mark.
  • Then use a chalk line to connect all the marks and you should be left with all the required guidelines as per the diagram below.

STEP 4

  • Always start the installation at the most visible corner in relation to the entrance to the room.
  • Below is a diagram that indicates which corner will be the most visible. The reason for this is to minimise any joints in line of sight.
  • Always start with the longest lengths first to minimise waste.

STEP 5

Corners:

Note: To make a 90 degree joint it is required to cut the butt end of the bulkhead at a 45-degree angle. The trick to successful mitres is to ensure that the bulkhead is cut correctly. Either with a mitre box, or by using guidelines marked out and cut with a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

The bulkhead uprights (Profile B, C, D, and E) are placed in the mitre box that has a horizontal 45-degree angle.

Alternatively, mark the angle required on the bulkhead profiles, and cut slowly, using a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

Note: To make sure the angle is cut correctly, ensure that the shadow line is always on the outside of the bulkhead.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing up. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an inside corner, as shown in the Image.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing down. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an outside corner as shown in the Image.

STEP 6

Apply a bead of adhesive along the top edges of the bulkheads (as indicated in the diagram), as well as the butt end (if being glued to another bulkhead or wall).

Note: Don’t be frightened of putting on too much adhesive, you will be able to scrape it off easily using the filling knife and a wet cloth or sponge to clean the wall or ceiling. You want it to just be squeezing out from the edges as you press the bulkhead into position. Be careful not to squeeze out all the adhesive as the adhesive will lose its ability to bond and cure.

  • Align the bulkhead to the chalk line on the wall to ensure a consistent straight installation. If you are installing from a corner, then leave just a few mm’s from the wall to allow the other mitre end to fit with the adhesive applied.
  • Once the first bulkhead length is installed then apply adhesive to the next length including the mitre joint or butt end that is joined with the first length. Pins can be used to keep joints in place.
  • Use your filling knife to press adhesive into any gaps, pushing adhesive into any joints that do not quite meet and any undulations in the surface of the wall or ceiling.

STEP 7

Once the installation is complete allow 48 to 72 hours for the adhesive to cure.

STEP 8

Before painting, inspect all the joints and sand away any excess adhesive or fill exposed joints. You can use the polystyrene adhesive to fill the joints or alternatively any acrylic filler. Be sure to leave a bit of excess over the joints which should be sanded smooth after 24 hours.

NOTE: Only use acrylic paints when painting polystyrene bulkheads.

Installation Instructions

Flat Light Trough L-Shape Bulkhead

Required tools:

  • Pencil
  • Measuring tape
  • Mitre Box (45-degree angle Horizontally – 150mm wide or more.)
  • A very fine saw
  • Chalk line and chalk
  • Ladder
  • Adhesive
  • Paint scraper / filling knife
  • Caulking gun for applying adhesive if adhesive is in a cartridge
  • Drop sheets if installing bulkheads in a room where tiles or carpets are already installed.
  • Sponge or mutton cloth for wiping away excess adhesive.
  • Very fine sandpaper

Assembly of the Bulkheads:

  • Slide the Upright Profiles horizontally as indicated in the images below.

Note: Don’t use too much force, and gently guide the Upright Profile into the Bottom Profile.

Flat Light Trough L-Shape

 

STEP 1

  • Ensure that the surface of the walls and ceilings, to which the bulkheads will be installed to, are free from dust and dirt and is completely dry.

Tip: You may use a 120 grid or finer sand paper to ensure the installation area is clean but make sure that all dust from sanding is wiped clean with a clean dry cloth.

STEP 2

Familiarise yourself with the bulkhead size. In the diagram below, you will see two measurements:

  1. Width – The width of the bulkhead
  2. Drop – The distance from the ceiling surface to the bottom edge of the bulkhead

STEP 3

For L-Shaped Bulkheads

  • Measure out and mark the installation line at the bulkhead width away from the wall. Repeat this measurement at each wall. (Add 5% to 10% for waste.)
  • Now measure the height of the bulkhead from the ceiling down by each corner of the walls or at least two places at each wall.
  • Then, use a chalk line to mark a straight line through each measurement mark on the ceiling as well as the walls for the total length of the wall or bulkhead length.

See diagram below. This will serve as the installation guideline.

STEP 4

  • Always start the installation at the most visible corner in relation to the entrance to the room.
  • Below is a diagram that indicates which corner will be the most visible. The reason for this is to minimise any joints in line of sight.
  • Always start with the longest lengths first to minimise waste.

STEP 5

Corners:

Note: To make a 90 degree joint it is required to cut the butt end of the bulkhead at a 45-degree angle. The trick to successful mitres is to ensure that the bulkhead is cut correctly. Either with a mitre box, or by using guidelines marked out and cut with a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

The bulkhead uprights (Profile B, C, D, and E) are placed in the mitre box that has a horizontal 45-degree angle.

Alternatively, mark the angle required on the bulkhead profiles, and cut slowly, using a utility knife or fine tooth saw.

Note: To make sure the angle is cut correctly, ensure that the shadow line is always on the outside of the bulkhead.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing up. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an inside corner, as shown in the Image.

  • Lay the Profile (B, C, D and E) flat in the mitre box with the shadow line facing down. Use the 45-degree angle in the mitre box to cut the corners.
  • Cut one corner on the left-hand side of the Profile. On another Profile, cut one corner on the right-hand side.

These should form an outside corner as shown in the Image.

STEP 6

Apply a bead of adhesive along the top edges of the bulkheads (as indicated in the diagram), as well as the butt end (if being glued to another bulkhead or wall).

Note: Don’t be frightened of putting on too much adhesive, you will be able to scrape it off easily using the filling knife and a wet cloth or sponge to clean the wall or ceiling. You want it to just be squeezing out from the edges as you press the bulkhead into position. Be careful not to squeeze out all the adhesive as the adhesive will lose its ability to bond and cure.

  • Align the bulkhead to the chalk line on the wall to ensure a consistent straight installation. If you are installing from a corner, then leave just a few mm’s from the wall to allow the other mitre end to fit with the adhesive applied.
  • Once the first bulkhead length is installed then apply adhesive to the next length including the mitre joint or butt end that is joined with the first length. Pins can be used to keep joints in place.
  • Use your filling knife to press adhesive into any gaps, pushing adhesive into any joints that do not quite meet and any undulations in the surface of the wall or ceiling.

STEP 7

Once the installation is complete allow 48 to 72 hours for the adhesive to cure.

STEP 8

Before painting, inspect all the joints and sand away any excess adhesive or fill exposed joints. You can use the polystyrene adhesive to fill the joints or alternatively any acrylic filler. Be sure to leave a bit of excess over the joints which should be sanded smooth after 24 hours.

NOTE: Only use acrylic paints when painting polystyrene bulkheads.